Planning a trip to the Amazon is exciting and also a bit daunting as there are different locations, lodges, types of accommodation, experiences and factors to consider. In this guide I will tell you how to plan a trip to the Peruvian Amazon. Peru has the 2nd highest amount of rainforest, after Brazil. The Amazon Rainforest covers 40% of South America and crosses 9 countries while the majority is in Brazil, Peru, Colombia, Bolivia, and Venezuela.
There are more claylicks in Peru than anywhere else in South America. The location in the western Amazon region means more wildlife in Peru as well as Ecuadorian Amazon.
We went for US Thanksgiving week 2025. We departed Friday, November 21 and returned on Sunday, November 30. This trip was dedicated to the Amazon so we went to the northern and southern Amazon of Peru. We spent 3 nights in each.
What You Should Know About Me
No Affiliates/Incentives. It’s important for you to know that I am not affiliated with any businesses nor products. There are no affiliates nor incentives in this article nor anywhere on this blog.
I am not a full time traveler/digital nomad. I am a California-based entrepreneur that loves to travel and share detailed travel information with others. I have been to approximately 50-60 countries, on every continent except Antarctica, and have travelled in different styles – solo, couple, elderly parents, and with family including little kids — ranging from budget backpacker, luxury and all inclusive to mid range and adventure travel, trekking, camping, traipsing around cities, remote areas and more.
I’m sharing all of this with you to let you know that I’ve had a wide range of experiences and bring that perspective to this blog.
I love to take photos but I don’t spend time planning Instagram-award winning shots as when I am on holiday, I prefer to spend my time and mindshare immersed in that experience. You can expect detailed information and
There are 2 gateways to the Peruvian Amazon:
- Iquitos
- Puerto Maldonado
There’s also Tarapoto, Huanuco, and the Selva Central. If you are a SERIOUS SERIOUS birdwatcher consider these entry points. Otherwise, these 3 areas are hard to get to and the cost/benefit doesn’t add up compared to Tambopata National Reserve as well as Pacya-Samiria National Reserve.
Synopsis
Iquitos = less expensive (as much as 50%) = more people; 3 nights, US Thanksgiving $800pp
Puerto Maldonado = has luxury options = more exclusive; 3 nights US Thanksgiving $1550pp
Iquitos = pink dolphins, giant lily pads
Puerto Maldonado = macaws, giant river otters, tapir
Both have direct flights to/from Lima (Iquitos: 2h; Puerto Maldonado 1h40m)
Puerto Maldonado also has direct flights to/from Cusco: 2h
Iquitos = accessible by air + boat only
Puerto Maldonado = accessible by car/bus, air + boat
That is the high level summary. Below, you’ll find the details.
Helpful Names, Terminology
First let’s get some names right as this can get confusing fast. Iquitos and Puerto Maldonado are cities. They are the jumping off points to your visit to the Amazon. Iquitos is in the northern Amazon and Puerto Maldonado is in the southern Amazon.
At each location there are national reserves. A national reserve is an area that is protected to safeguard biodiversity and allow sustainable use of natural resources. These areas are set up for sustainable tourism and support the local communities.
Whether you choose to visit the Amazon from Iquitos or Puerto Maldonado (or go to both), you will go to one or more of the national reserves. There are a few reserves in each location but the most popular from Iquitos is Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve and from Puerto Maldonado, Tambopata National Reserve. There is also the Manu lowlands. Regardless of whether you select Iquitos or Puerto Maldonado, to reach a national reserve, you will arrive by river.
In Iquitos there is also the Tamshiyacu Tahuayo Reserve. It is smaller compared to Pacaya-Samiria. There are a number of monkey species. This reserve is better suited for trekking and hiking in the Amazon as well as boat safaris.
Iquitos is the capital city of Peru’s Maynas Province. It is the largest city in the Peruvian Amazon with a population of 420,000 and the largest city in the world (that is not on an island) that cannot be reached by road. It can only be reached by river or air. There are daily flights from Lima (about 2 hours).
Puerto Maldonado is also a city and the jumping off point for the southern Amazon. Flights from Lima are 1.75 hours and from Cusco, 1 hour. It is possible to drive from Cusco as well.
How Do Iquitos and Puerto Maldonado Differ?
Exclusivity. Expect more people in Iquitos compared to Puerto Maldonado.
Different Ways To Experience. Iquitos is more viewing wildlife by boat whereas Puerto Maldonado is a combo of trekking + boat.
Wildlife Density. Iquitos offers unique wildlife such as pink dolphins and howler monkeys but the wildlife can be more spread out. Puerto Maldonado has denser, more visible wildlife.
Costs. Not my favorite thing to address first but costs are a reality so let’s just get this out of the way quickly so we can get to the good stuff that makes these two destinations differ.
Iquitos is less expensive than Puerto Maldonado. And when I say less expensive, when I was booking in May 2025 for November (US Thanksgiving week 2025) it was a 50% difference.
This is counterintuitive as the Iquitos Amazon is more remote – remember the only way to get to Iquitos it by air or boat whereas Puerto Maldonado can also be reached by car and it’s closer to popular Cusco. But like most things – it comes down to supply and demand.
Iquitos = More Supply + Budget Options vs. Budget + Luxury Options Puerto Maldonado. The Iquitos Amazon has more supply of tour operators and accommodations and more budget and simple options including camping and boat-based liveaboards. Out of Puerto Maldonado there more lodges cater to eco-luxury and high end travelers whereas Iquitos attracts more backpackers.
Iquitos = Year Round Demand vs. Seasonal in Puerto Maldonado. Iquitos has year-round demand whereas Puerto Maldonado has higher demand in the dry season and holidays. We traveled during one of the peak seasons – US Thanksgiving.
Park Fees and Group vs. Private Tours. There are fewer park fees out of Iquitos. In Puerto Maldonado there are group as well as private guided tour options whereas fewer private options out of Iquitos.
Rivers
Iquitos is in the Amazon River itself whereas Puerto Maldonado is in two of its tributaries – the Madre de Dios River and the Tambopata River. The Amazon River is significantly wider giving it a very different look and feel.
If going to the actual Amazon River is important to you, then Iquitos.
Puerto Maldonado is home to some great oxbow lakes. Oxbow lakes are where rivers cut off creating a stillwater habitat. Stillwater means calm and still currents. The oxbow lakes in the Amazon are rich with nutrients creating dense vegetation which attracts giant sea otters, caimans, monkeys and many bird species. Lake Sandoval is approximately 127 hectares and one of the main attractions as it’ famous for its family of resident giant sea otters. While they can be seen throughout the year, the best time is during the dry season from May thru October.
Flora and Fauna
If you want to see pink river dolphins, manatees, giant lily pads = Iquitos.
For giant river otters and macaws (the largest parrot clay lick in the world) = Puerto Maldonado.
Bottom line: the experiences in each are awesome, but different. You know you, if you can’t do both, what’s a higher priority?
Access
Iquitos is the northern part of the country and can only be reached by air or river. There are daily flights from Lima (2 hours). From there the boats to your accommodation in the Amazon take a little longer compared to Puerto Maldonado. There are no direct flights to Iquitos from Cusco – there will be a layover in Lima.
Puerto Maldonado is a bit easier to reach as there are short flights from Lima (1.75 hours) and Cusco (1 hour) or you can drive from Cusco.
Bottomline:
1. Puerto Maldonado + reserves from there are faster to reach.
2. Puerto Maldonado’s proximity to Cusco and the accessibility make it an attractive option.
Accommodation
In Iquitos your options are jungle lodges and live-aboards.
In Puerto Maldonado you can stay in a hotel in the city and do day trips or stay in the rainforest at a jungle lodge. There are no live aboard options.
Your accommodation will have a big impact on your trip because your lodge will also manage all of your daily activities and meals. The further you are away from the city, the better chances of seeing more wildlife and the larger animals such as giant otters and jaguars. As you can imagine, the lodges farther away cost more. There are a number of lodges in the Iquitos region and the Puerto Maldonado region. They vary in distance from the city, room types, amenities and activities.
Stay in the reserve or near it?A key difference between Iquitos vs. Puerto Maldonado is staying in the national reserve or near it, called the buffer zone.
In Iquitos tourists cannot stay in the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve except for rustic camp sites and community-run shelters as there are no lodges actually in the reserve. Instead there are lodges in the buffer zone and surrounding area.
Whereas out of Puerto Maldonado, tourists can actually stay in the Tambopata National Reserve. Why does this matter?
- When you stay in the reserve the wildlife and jungle are at your doorstep all the time. There’s no travel to get there, you’re already there.
- When you stay in the reserve you can do river + land based activities
- When you’re not staying in the reserve there’s longer travel time from the lodge to the reserve (1-2 hours each way). So more time is spent commuting.
Each location boasts their one iconic lodge amongst several options. In Iquitos it’s the Treehouse Lodge and in Puerto Maldonado it’s the Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica.
From Puerto Maldonado, The Tambopata Research Center is a research center as well as a lodge in the buffer zone of the Tambopata National Reserve and only 10 minutes away – making it the closest lodge to the reserve. It’s also the closest lodge to one of the largest macaw clay licks in the Amazon.
What is a macaw clay lick? It’s a piece of earth often on a riverbank or cliff with exposed clay that macaws, parakeets, parrots and other birds like to eat.
Activities
From Iquitos in the national reserves daily activities are more river based whereas in Puerto Maldonado more of a combo of trekking + river based. BUT jungle walks may be able to be arranged at lodges in both destinations. Depending on the type of accommodation and lodge you choose they may have some activities such as canopy walkways, ziplining, and night tours.
So how do you decide between Iquitos and Puerto Maldonado? It kinda comes down to:
- your tolerance for travel to either gateway + travel once you’re in the Amazon. How much do you care about staying in the protected reserve vs. in its periphery?
- how important visiting the actual Amazon River matters to you
- your preferred choice of flora and fauna – macaws or river dolphins?
What Is The Difference Between Staying IN a National Reserve vs. Its Buffer Zone?
Let’s focus on two landmarks the gateway city: either Iquitos and Puerto Maldonado and a national reserve. The closer you are to a city the more creature comforts you can get. There are accommodations in the city, a little away from the city and a lot away from the city.
- The further from the city = the deeper into the Amazon.
- The further from the city = fewer creature comforts: hot water, less electricity, wifi.
- The further from the city = more chances of seeing large animals.
- The further from the city = more immersive experience.
- The further from the city = more $.
So…as with anything, there are trade offs.
For those with 1 or 2 nights, have tight flight schedules, or require more everyday amenities staying in or closer to the city might be better.
For those with 3 or more nights that want to really get deep into the Amazon, then staying in or near a reserve would be better.
What is a buffer zone? It’s an area outside of a national reserve. Some lodges are 10 minutes away, some are 30 minutes +. There are lodges in the Tambopata National Reserve (Puerto Maldonado) but not in the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve (Iquitos). The closest you can stay in the Pacaya-Samiria is in the buffer zone.
In the reserve or buffer zone you are surrounded by nature.
Weather in the Amazon Rainforest
The Tambopata National Reserve is warm and humid throughout the year. There are two seasons: wet and dry. Rainy season is from November thru March. Expect higher water levels. Certain activities may be limited. The clay licks which is where animals gather will be fewer and visibility on lakes is reduced.
The dry season is from April thru October. It’s less humid with cooler nights.
Flow Of The Day
Breakfast is 6 or 6:30am, first activity is at 745 am to around 1030, lunch is at noon, rest period/free period from 12 to 3 pm, afternoon activity is 3 to maybe 530 pm, dinner at 7 pm, and evening activity is at 745 pm.
About The Reserves
The Tambopata National Reserve is 274,690 hectares. Its proximity to Puerto Maldonado makes it an attractive destination for those with 2-3 days in the Amazon – a lot of wildlife in a short amount of time. Within the reserve are protected areas such as Madidi National Park and Bahuaja National Park. Wildlife can move freely through this Belgium sized area.
The Tambopata Research Center is a great lodge with lots of opportunities to immerse in nature. It’s also the only lodge actually in the reserve therefore it’s furthest away rom the city of Puerto Maldonado. Posada Amazonas is closer to town and situsted for giant river otters and Refugio Amazonas is in the buffer zone.
The Manu National Park is a famous region in the Peruvian Amazon and it is home to famous Lake Sandoval which boasts incredible diversity of wildlife. Tourists are not allowed in the national park itself but rather specific zones. The Manu National Park is famous for claylicks and higher chances of seeing tapir at the tapirlick.
The Tamshiyacu Tahuayo Reserve was established to protect the Red Uakaris – a species of monkey with red fur and a bald head. There are flooded and nom-flooded plains in this reserve – a unique feature. And it’s known for wide species of monkeys and birds.
Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve is one of Peru’s largest protected areas. This area is mostly flooded plains therefore best experienced via boats/rainforest cruise. This reserve is often called the Forest of Mirrors because the tributaries are filled with nutriet-rich water that makes them appear black which causes the water to reflect the trees and sky.
What To Pack
Pack for humidity – that means moisture wicking, quick dry clothing. Merino wool is ideal – it’s also $$$. If you will use your merino wool pieces for more than just this trip, then it’s worth the investment.
I went at the end of November which is the beginning of the rainy season = more mosquitoes, so I only packed pants and long sleeve tops – no short sleeves, tank tops, dresses, nor shorts.
They provide rubber rain boots for you to wear on all excursions to protect the environment. With their permission, I took my own BRAND NEW pair that I bought specifically for this trip as I wear children’s size shoes and whenever I have been on excursions where gear is included, it’s ALWAYS too big for me.
For me, it was worth it to buy my own since we were out for many hours throughout the day and evening.
I took joggers and leggings to wear with boots. For evenings at the lodge I took wide leg pants.
You absolutely need a good rain jacket with a hood. Being the overly-cautious type I also packed ponchos.
Shoe and Foot Gear, I took my sneakers to wear around the lodge and slippers for the shower. I took tall hiking socks to wear with the boots and ankle socks for the sneakers.
Undergarments. Ladies, pack sports bras and breathable panties.
Warm Layer. I had a warm layer – a jacket to wear for the travel journey. It was so hot at the time of year, in the Amazon, at all times, that I never used it while I was there.
You will need:
Mosquito repellent
Shampoo/conditioner
Anti frizz serum
Shower cap
Any skincare products – I kept it MINIMUM due to humidity
Sunscreen
Curling foam (there are no hair dryers/styling tools)
Body wash
Deodorant
Wide brimmed hat
Sunglasses
Contact lenses
Travel toilet paper
Travel first aid kit – hydrocortisone cream, band aids, antibacterial ointment, pain medication, some sort of stomach medication, any other medications.
Ladies, if you need any feminine hygiene products, bring them with you.
I didn’t take any make up. It was SO hot and humid, it would have just melted right off.
Camera Gear
This is one destination where I was not going to leave the DSLR at home. I took one long range lens + camera body. I carried it in a drybag backpack which served as our daypack for the whole trip.
I placed a padded insert inside the bag that could hold the DSLR with the lens attached – this is important as I wanted the camera to be protected but also make it as quick as possible to grab-and-use.
To protect against humidity I placed a couple of silica packets in my daypack as well as the padded camera insert.
Nice To Have Items
Neck buff
Antibacterial hand wipes
Hand sanitizer
On long haul flights I usually remove my shoes. I take a pair of tube socks asfeet can get cold on the plane. I also pack a pair of disposable slippers as I don’t like to have to keep putting my shoes on/off whenever I get out of my seat.
I pack a travel blanket on journeys with long layovers.
Headphones/earbuds
Ear plugs
I have a small stand that attaches to the tray table so that the phone is more at eye level so not straining neck while watching.
Cell phone charging chord (I travel with an extra long one)
I always travel with a few tiny compostable trash bags – they come in VERY handy on the plane and throughout the day on trips – especially in a place like the Amazon where there is not easy, frequent access to trash cans – except back at the lodge.
Snacks – we are vegan so we always take our own snacks but regardless take plastic bags to store food containers in to avoid bugs.
For long haul flights sometimes I take a sheet mask.
Passport Pages 